Showing posts with label New Zealand. Show all posts
Showing posts with label New Zealand. Show all posts

Wednesday, November 1, 2017

Auckland Diaries: Devonport - Quaint shops & cafes, yummy chocolates & old tombstones

Devonport is a small pretty suburb just 12 minutes away from Auckland CBD via ferry.  Charming village is how brochures describe it.  So on my last day in Auckland, this is where I decided to go.

From my hotel, I took the bus and got off at the Auckland harbour.  From the bus stop, I just walked until I reached the ferry terminal.    Check out the beautiful Auckland harbour photos I took along the way -

Auckland Fish Market

I heard that the Auckland Fish Market is a good place to eat. I think there are restaurants which allow you to buy fresh fish then have it cooked.  I just didn't have time to make a stopover since I was trying to catch a specific ferry schedule that morning.




This was on a Friday morning, before 9am.  Not a lot of people are out in streets yet.  Even the footbridge had very few pedestrians.  






I was able to catch the 9:15am ferry ride to Devonport and here's the view of the Auckland Skyline from the ferry.



Beautiful Auckland skyline

When I got off Devonport, there were a lot of seagulls. 




Check out this short videoclip of seagulls -  



I've always been fascinated by old, quaint villages and Devonport fits the bill.   It's your typical small community where you buy fresh produce in a place called <Insert name of place> Fruit & Veggies - yes,  Devonport Fruit and Veggies.



And where you get a haircut in a place called The Barber Shop, or get ice cream in a place called Devonport Scoops, or buy vitamins and medicines in a drugstore called Devonport Pharmacy.   


Devonport's barbershop, ice cream place & pharmacy

No need to think about branding or making your store stand out coz people readily know where to get what in such a compact place.    Most places in the world were like this before giant malls and stores have started creeping into suburbs that's why it's so refreshing to see places like Devonport that are still well-preserved and untainted of commercialism. 

I also passed by the Devonport bookstore and they were selling vintage books like these.  Two books for about USD10.  

Vintage books for sale

I wasn't able to grab breakfast when I left the hotel so my first agenda when I reached Devonport was to eat. Haha...  I spotted this structure and saw people coming out.  The signage on top says "Devonport Automatic Telephone Exchange" but the canopy says "Devonport Stone Oven Bakery & Cafe" so I figured out that it's the original structure of the telephone exchange but has been converted to a cafe.  How cool is that?




Here's how the bakery and cafe looks inside - 




And the yummy baked goodies it serves.   




I have been eating seafood, lamb and beef in the last 4 days so this time, I picked something light.      

Blue Cheese Mushroom Walnut Quiche

It's super, super good! 😋

After that yummy breakfast, it was time to start exploring Devonport by foot. Here are snippets of my direction-less walking tour. 😂

Devonport Chocolates. Yes, this Devonport is home to Devonport Chocolates which is known for its hand-made gourmet chocolates and truffles. 




Check out its yummy chocolates -




They have pre-packed assorted chocolates in beautiful boxes but you could also buy specific flavors.  Each piece costs about USD1.80 to USD2.50.

Here are the flavors I liked - Chili Truffle, Spicy Ginger, Chocolate Truffle and Lemoncillo Cup.  I loved Chili Truffle the best though.  At first, I thought the combination was weird but when I took a bite, it was super good! 😋  



Nearby I saw a gallery and went inside.  They have paintings, photos and other local artworks on display.  They also sell local books.  They have this publication entitled "The Vernacularist" with the theme "Urban-Rural: The Great Divide?" which explores issues faced by cities and non-urban communities in terms of culture, values, landscape, etc.  What an interesting topic.   I hope it has an ebook version available. 




I walked back towards the main road (where the stores are) when I realized I was in the residential area already.  But it's good to explore the quiet neighborhoods too as there are a lot of pretty houses.  Check these out -

Taken from various areas of Devonport

Back on the main road, I saw this interesting structure - it's the Devonport Library.  I'm impressed and amazed that in all the places I've been to in Auckland - whether at the heart of the CBD or in a small community like Piha where the population is only 600  - there's always a library and people really go there.    I'm a bookworm that's why libraries and bookstores have a special place in my heart. 😊😍

Devonport Library

From the library, I took this path towards the coastline and just continued walking -




Along the coastline, I passed by this big place called Elizabeth House - it's composed of 3 similar-looking houses.    Based on the marker at the entrance, it used to be a hotel called Ventnor Private Hotel and was rebuilt in 1911 after it caught fire.  In 1944,  it was acquired by the Royal New Zealand Navy to  house the Women’s Royal New Zealand Naval Service (WRNZNS) or ‘Wrens' until it was closed in 1911.  Today, it's now a private residence.




That day I was in Devonport was on Sept 8 - Mama Mary's birthday.  This was the first church I saw so I went inside to say a short prayer.  




It wasn't a Catholic Church but it's ok.  It does have some images of Mama Mary inside.  :) 




On my way out of the church, guess what I spotted?  A mini library.   New Zealanders are really big on reading. 😊




As I continued to walk, I entered another residential area.  Lots of pretty and charming houses.  




I was walking without a destination in mind.   Then it started to drizzle so I put on my hoodie and checked the map on how to get back to the pier.  Either I retrace my steps back to the coastline or move forward by going around Mount Victoria.   I decided to just continue moving forward so I could explore more.  Mount Victoria is only 87 meters high and you'll see it wherever you are at Devonport that's why I wasn't worried I won't get lost.

Mount Victoria (Source)

Along the way, I saw a cemetery.  Call me weird but I like visiting cemeteries.  I like reading tombstones, computing how long the deceased lived, what era they lived, wondering about their lives, and saying a short prayer especially for those whose tombs that look like have long been abandoned and forgotten.   It also makes me happy when I see flowers in tombs coz this means people have not forgotten their dead.  And conversely, I feel sad when I see a cemetery without flowers on tombs.  

Sadly, this cemetery didn't have any flowers and it looks abandoned.   I still went anyway coz I was curious to know how old are the tombs.  

A strange thing happened when I entered the cemetery.  Suddenly, I heard several voices crying out "Help!", "Help!" - and this is considering I had a hoodie over my head.  They sounded like children's voices.  But I didn't get scared coz I was thinking maybe there's a school nearby and the voices are that of students playing.  Because I'm a thinker (more than a feeler), I removed my hoodie to validate, but the weird thing is, the voices stopped. 😲😨   I couldn't hear anything except for birds chirping.  I just removed my hoodie then.




I didn't give it much thought coz I don't have a third eye.  At the back of my head, I am sure there's some kind of explanation for it.  I just said a short prayer for the dead which is my usual habit when I visit cemeteries.

The tombs that I saw there date back to late 1800s.  One tomb for example has a inscription that says the person died at 80 years old in 1878.  This means he was born in 1798, making him 219 years old today.  The youngest I saw died in 1888 when she was only 14 months old.  This means she was born in 1886 making her 131 years old today.  With the 2 deceased, that spans anywhere from 5 to 10 generations. Maybe their descendants have already moved to other places, or maybe, their direct lineage ended at a certain generation.

There was a Catholic Church - St. Francis the Sales and All Souls Church - adjacent to the cemetery. I decided to go inside to say a short prayer.

St Francis the Sales and All Souls Church


I did some online research and found out that the cemetery is older than the church.  The original church was erected in 1893 and at that time, the cemetery was already closed.  No wonder, the tombs I saw at the cemetery were all dated before 1890.  Sadly, there was nothing more written about the history of the cemetery.

Right beside St Francis the Sales Church is another church and cemetery -  St. Paul's - a Presbyterian church I think.

St. Paul's Church and Cemetery
I went around some tombs and like the first cemetery, the ones that I saw there were dated before 1900s.  I didn't hear any voices this time. I kept my hoodie off too. Haha....




When I went back to the main road to continue walking, I noticed that there's a school right across the second cemetery.  So maybe I was right.  The voices I heard in the first cemetery perhaps came from the school carried by the wind.  Case closed.

I continued to walk until I reached the pier to ride the ferry back to the CBD. Then I had late lunch at the hotel before heading to the airport for my flight back to Manila.  I was excited to go home already after 5 days of exploring beautiful Auckland.  😊 A lot of my friends thought 5 days was too short a trip but I thought 5 days was just perfect. 😉    

P.S.  While I was compiling photos for this blog, I remembered I took a video while I was walking in the first cemetery until I stopped recording coz I was bothered by the voices crying out for help in my ears.   Below is the short videoclip.  Guess what? There are no voices in the audio - only birds chirping and the wind. 😱 😱




I also checked google maps on what the distance is between St Francis de Sales' and St Paul's churches and it's 190 meters away.    Was it possible for the wind to have carried some students' voices from 190 meters away but they weren't just captured by my phone's audio recording?   But how come I could hear the voices clearly even though my ears were covered under a hoodie? 

But one thing is for sure - I don't have a third eye and I don't ever want to have one. 🙈🙈🙉🙉   
Maybe it just means I need to pray more for the eternal rest of souls.  🙏🙏🙏

So while you're here reading this, can you please say this short prayer? 

Eternal rest grant unto them O Lord. 
And let perpetual light shine upon them.
May they rest in peace.
Amen. 

Thank you. 😊

Tuesday, October 31, 2017

Auckland Diaries: Rainforest, Black Sand Beaches and Kauri Trees

Sign that you're unprepared for a trip - at night, you're just figuring out what you'll do the next day.  That's me in Auckland, every night.  😬 😅

After seeing glow worm caves, geysers, mud pools, sealife, wildlife and a little flora and fauna on the first 3 days, I decided to join a bush and beach exploration on the 4th day at the Waitakere Ranges. 😎

Our first stop was in a suburb called Titirangi where we made a quick stopover in a local bakery called The Mill Bakehouse.  I was still full from breakfast but our tour guide was raving about this bakery's freshly-baked pies.  I got the steak and mushroom pie and since it was still hot, it was the best time to eat it. 😋

Best steak and mushroom pie I ever tasted!

Love at first bite. 😍   The crust was tasty and the beef chunks were consistently tender (nothing chewy).  I finished all of it.  Though my brain said I was full, my tummy self-adjusted.  😂

Our next stop was at the Arataki Visitor Centre which is the gateway to the Waitakere Ranges Regional Park.  You can get maps and tips here before exploring hiking trails, waterfalls and the coastline.  There's great view here too and some interesting exhibits.


Popular photo-op spot for visitors.

The sculpture at the entrance of the Arataki Visitor Centre looks like a totem pole but the Maoris call this a pou (post) and it's a tribute to their tribal ancestors. 


The pou stands at 11 meters high.  It's one, if not, the highest pou in NZ.

Maori sculpture up close.  The sculptures are made from kauri trees,
the king of trees in NZ. 

Beautiful view from the Arataki Visitor Centre

Inside the Centre, here are some of the interesting subjects I saw  -

Geckos

Yes, the geckos in the photos are real ones.  According to the description, NZ geckos give birth to baby geckos (instead of laying eggs).  Other interesting facts:  If their tails are cut, they can re-grow them.  And geckos don't have eyelids - to keep their eyes moist, they lick them.


Tree weta (Source)
Sorry, the photo I took of the TreeWeta at the Centre isn't that good.

You know what's amazing about the Tree Weta? They are as old as dinosaurs!   Yes, these insects have outlived the dinosaurs.  And in the last 100 million years, they have hardly changed according to the exhibit description.    


Stick Insect - can you spot it?

It does look like a stick, right?  You know what's the longest species of the Stick Insect in New Zealand?  16 centimeters long! 😱

During our visit, there was also an ongoing paper light box exhibit at the Centre entitled Kowhai and the Giants by Kate Parker.  Kowhai and the Giants is a story about migration of people and land change and the paper exhibit tells the story in 10 paper light boxes.   With Parker's paper art, she hopes to inspire people to protect trees.

Check out Parker's beautiful paper art -




Notice the tiniest details?




Could you believe these artworks are just made from paper, cardboard, scissors and glue?  




It's so amazing how the layers, light and shadow, when put together, create 2D magic. :) 

There's also a section featuring Power Rangers' memorabilia at the Centre.  Apparently, Waitakere bush and beaches have been used for several Power Rangers' scenes in the past.  


Power Rangers exhibit

Another great NZ and Power Rangers' news -  in Power Rangers' 22nd season, the Black Ranger is played by a New Zealander.  How cool is that?! 💪 😎

Another beautiful view of Auckland from the Centre

The Arataki Visitor Centre has also a play area for kids.   Check out what kids have been asking the Rangers and what the Rangers have to say in return.  By "Rangers", I mean Park Rangers this time, not Power Rangers. 😉 😆 




From the Arataki Visitor Centre, we headed to Kare Kare Falls.  I forgot what Kare Kare means in NZ but in our part of the world, Kare-Kare is a yummy beef or pork stew dish in a thick peanut-based sauce.  😋


Beautiful Kare Kare Falls

Our tour guide pointed at these beautiful houses up in the mountains near the Kare Kare Falls.    It must be nice to be able to live in a place surrounded by nature but have easy access to the city.   This place is only about 45 minutes to 1 hour to Auckland City.




From the Kare Kare Falls, we headed to Piha's Lion Rock.   Our tour guide made a quick stopover at this spot where we could see Piha's iconic landmark, Lion Rock.  


Piha's Lion Rock - could you spot the lion's head? 

Piha has a very small population - about 600.  Since it's just a small community, there's one coffee place, one art gallery, one fire station, one library, etc.  


Piha's fire station

I could just imagine everyone knows each other at Piha.   They're probably like one big family. :)   We passed by Piha's community library and our tour guide said it is only open like 2 hours a day coz it's just managed by volunteers.  How nice. 😊

Piha beach

Black Sand Beach of Piha

Black sand up close

Did you know that black sand is magnetic?

Our tour guide brought with him a magnet to demonstrate to us that black sand is magnetic. We were like kids doing some science experiment at the beach. 😆   Watch this shortclip to see how the black sand gets magnetized. 




Most types of black sand are formed as a result of a volcanic eruption. Volcanic minerals and lava fragments commonly have "magnetite" in them and so black sand has magnetite too.  What is magnetite? It's a type of iron oxide that is naturally occurring and it is what makes black sand magnetic.

More photos at the Piha Beach.







From the beach, you could also walk towards the Lion Rock. 

The Lion Rock up close

 Interesting fact about the Lion Rock - it's an eroded neck of a volcano which erupted 16 million years ago. Wow... 😲     BTW, you can go up the Lion Rock to enjoy spectacular views from all angles.  

From Piha's Lion Rock, it was time for our rainforest walk at the Waitakare Ranges.  

One important discipline which New Zealanders do is to make sure everyone who visits their forests wash, brush off dirt and disinfect shoes before entering and after exiting the premises.   Why?  To prevent plant diseases from spreading commonly caused by contaminated soil in people's footwear, hiking poles and gear.  

Disinfecting stations at the entrance and exit of rainforests

Farms around New Zealand also have disinfecting stations like this to protect farm animals from also getting diseases commonly spread by contaminated soil from shoes and gear.

Here are some photos from our rainforest walk - 






So beautiful and peaceful.  All you could hear were the sounds of bird chirping, water flowing and our footsteps. 




A tree with a face!  Can you see the face?

Along the way, our tour guide also educated us on what leaves and fruits are edible.  Good to know info for survival in case one gets lost in the forest.  😬   He even made us taste some fruits and leaves like these - 


I think this is some kind of a palm/coconut tree.  Could it be the tiniest coconut species? 

See the vines on the left? If you're thirsty, this vine could be your source of hydration.
Just chew it.    

Forgot what's the name of this plant but the leaves are analgesic. 
If you have a toothache, you can just munch on this leaf. 

One of New Zealand's most popular Kiwi, if not the most popular, is Sir Edmund Hillary, the first man to climb Mount Everest's summit in 1953 (together with Nepalese Sherpa mountaineer Tenzing Norgay).   Waitakare Ranges is a special place in Sir Hillary's life since he developed his love for the outdoors on tours with the club through the Waitakere Ranges.   

There's a trail at the Waitakere Ranges in honor of Sir Hillary. 


The famous Hillary Trail

Sir Hillary's trail is for serious hikers - it's 70km and takes 4 days to hike. Yikes!  😳 

I've heard many good stories about Sir Edmund Hillary - how he dedicated his life to building hospitals and schools in Nepal and how he stayed humble despite his long string of accomplishments.  I should read up on his life story one of these days. :)

One of New Zealand's popular icons is a fern leaf.

NZ's symbol - a fern leaf

The fern leaf has been the symbol of New Zealand’s national rugby team since the 1880s and it's been used in all NZ tourism campaigns as the country of origin symbol.  It is considered a badge of honor by the people, products and services that carry it.

We saw lots of these New Zealand ferns in the rainforest.  


New Zealand ferns

 Our tour guide asked us what is the color of the fern leaf and we answered green. Then he asked us -"how about the color of the underside of the fern leaf?"  We looked underneath the fern (see photo below) and our answer was still green.  It does look green, right?




Then our tour guide flipped a twig and surprise, surprise, the color of the leaf's underside is actually silver white, not green!😲  

Silver Fern's underside - it's color silver white!

It just looks green when you look underneath the fern because of the reflection, the tour guide explained.  

It is said that Māori hunters and warriors used the silver underside of the fern leaves to find their way home. When bent over, the fronds would catch the moonlight and illuminate a path through the forest. (Source)

So if you're lost at night in the forest, you could leave a trail of these fern leaves in your path to help rescuers find you.

BTW, one of the reasons why I joined this eco-tour is to learn more about kauri trees and see them up close.  What's so special about kauri trees?  They are among the world's mightiest trees. They could grow to over 50 meters tall (that's about 16 floors high!) and its trunk girth could be as thick as 16 meters (that's equivalent to about 5 floors)! 😲😱    And they have been living for over 2,000 years. 


Kauri trees were used to build houses and boats in 1700s and 1800s.
 Until the mid 20th century, demand for farmland and timber continued to increase.

Kauri tree

Now kauri trees are  facing a threat - kauri dieback - a fungus-type disease.  Microscopic spores in the soil can infect kauri and damage tissues that carry nutrients within the tree.   Sadly, there is no known cure for kauri dieback and nearly all infected kauri die eventually.   To save kauri trees and reduce the spread of the disease,  one should (1) clean his/her shoes and equipment (remove all soil) before and after forest visits and (2) stay on track and avoid kauri tree roots. Any movement of soil around the roots of trees could spread the disease.

Huge trunk of a dead kauri tree 

The trunk of the kauri tree in the photo above doesn't look that big but that's more than 2 meters in diameter.    You can even go inside the trunk as it has been hollowed.  Check out the photo below -


Inside the trunk of the kauri tree

And here's the view when you look up from the inside of the kauri trunk.  What a wide trunk diameter! 😲




But we want more giant kauri trees like this alive, not dead and hollow.😔  If kauri dieback isn't controlled, we may lose the kauri forest ecosystem for good.   That's why it's important for everyone not to skip disinfecting stations to save kauri trees.  Washing, brushing off dirt and disinfecting takes just a couple of minutes.  I hope these mighty trees will continue to thrive.  🙏

Before leaving the Waitakere Ranges, we made a quick stop over to visit another big kauri tree.  I just can't take a full length shot coz the tree is so tall. 


Kauri Tree 

On our way back to Auckland, spotted a rainbow.   What a beautiful way to end a nature-packed day.  :)


Can you see the rainbow?

Note:   The Waitakere Ranges Wilderness Experience Eco-Tour costs USD110.  It's by bushandbeach which specializes in small group tours.  What's good about Bush and Beach tours is that they push through with the tour even if you're just 2 pax.  I actually booked solo and there was another person who booked solo so it was just the 2 of us and the tour guide the whole day.