Sunday, June 9, 2013

Things to do in Angeles City

When we travel, it's ironic how we visit museums in other places but it is least likely that we have been to museums within our vicinity.  Like I grew up in Pampanga but I couldn't remember ever been going to a local museum. Last weekend was my first time to go to one when my friends and I visited the Museo ning Angeles and Holy Angel University museum.  I was surprised to learn a lot about the Pampanggo heritage.

Here's the Museo ning Angeles (Museum of Angeles) signage by the talented Pampanggo artist, chef, author, writer, Claude Tayag.  The carving is made from an old karetela wheel.

 

Inside the Museo ng Angeles, you'll find old photos of the city, prominent people who shaped its heritage, important historical events of the city, as well as artifacts.

 

Here's a vine of Culiat.  Unknown to some, Culiat was the original name of Angeles as the area was full of Culiat vines when its founder, Don Angelo Panteleon Miranda discovered it.

 

Here's a photo of the rotunda of Angeles City in 1945.  My friend said this is the area where Puregold stands today. It would be interesting to see the "Then and Now" photos for easy reference. Haha..
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There's an old house in Angeles City near the Church called Pamintuan Mansion.  According to stories, Aguinaldo celebrated the first anniversary of Philippine independence in this house - as he happened to be in Angeles at that time.

 

Here is the Pamintuan Mansion today.

 

Here's a photo of a Japanese Kempeitai Commandant.  The caption says that the Kempeitai was the most dreaded unit of the Imperial Japanese Army known for its heinous torture methods and executions.

 

But what surprised me was to see photos of Japanese soldiers in a different light.  There were soldiers who were friendly with Filipinos. Check out this Japanese soldier with his little Filipino tomodachi (friend).



Some Japanese soldiers showed fondness for Filipino kids.  Check these out.

 

And there were even Japanese-Filipino Friendship parties.

 

Another photo which caught my eye was a collection of photos showing Angeles in different perspectives.  Some would say it's a city of lost angels because of its red light district. 



This photo was taken in 1968.  Check out what the girl was wearing - this was considered as daring and bold then. Wow, times have really changed!

You'll also find antique items at Museo ning Angeles. Check these out. 






There are also beautiful dioramas in the museum such as this depicting a procession of the Virgin Mary.



An old Pampanggo kitchen depicting how the girls are trained in the kitchen at a young age.



Look at how detailed the dioramas are. Beautiful.   According to the guide, this specific diorama was by another talented Pampanggo, Patis Tesoro.



Among the dioramas, this is the one which caught my attention as my friend relayed the miraculous story of a convicted man during the Spanish era.

 

I also checked Wikipedia to validate the story. The story goes that sometime in October 1897, there were Katipuneros who entered the boundary of Angeles.  When the Spaniards got wind of it, they searched for these Katipuneros.  They interrogated people for the Katipuneros' whereabouts but to no avail.  There was this innocent man who was accused of lying and withholding info about the said Katipuneros so he was put on trial and was declared guilty.



The man was Roman Payumu, nicknamed Duman.  He was a religious man and was a devotee of the Apung Mamacalulu (Lord of Mercy). Duman was a volunteer cargador of Apung Mamacalulu (Santo Entierro or Dead Body of Christ) during processions.  Everyday, he would also pass by the Holy Rosary Parish Church to pray to Apung Mamacalulu.
On the day of Duman's execution, he asked the soldiers if he could pray first to Apu before they kill him.  But since it was siesta time, the church was closed so he went to the door closest to the statue, knelt and prayed to Apu.  In the Wikipedia entry, there was even a record of his prayer because apparently, the parish priest was at the other side of the church door and heard Duman's prayer asking Apu to save him.

He was mocked and ridiculed by the soldiers as he prayed. When the soldiers were about to execute him, Duman just felt the ropes on his hands loosened.  He took it as a sign of help from Apu and ran to the sugarcane fields (where Holy Angel University stands now).
It was considered miraculous because other than the ropes loosening, the soldiers who fired bullets (the soldiers were using top of the line guns at that time) didn't hit him considering he was just less than 10 ft away! In the Wikipedia entry, it is said that Duman was hit at the heel, fell into a hole and hid there.  The Spanish soldiers tried to search for him and even poked at every hole they saw with their bayonets but they never found him. Duman survived and escaped. Such an inspiring story. Everything looked impossible but his prayer was answered by Apu.

Museo ning Angeles is just across the Holy Rosary Parish Church so after our museum visit, we went to visit the church - it's the same church where Duman prayed to Apu.

 

Inside the church, you will find the Santo Entierro or Apung Mamacalulu.  There are 2 statues of this Dead Body of Christ. My friend said that once upon a time (in 1928), while the statue was in a procession, it got stolen.  Decades after, the statue surfaced but they were two of them.  One was housed in a small chapel and the other one in the big Church.  Most believe that the original is the one in the small chapel but there are some who believe that the original one is in the big church.  But I think it doesn't matter which is which because the fact remains that when you pray to Apu, no matter how impossible your petitions may seem, Apu listens and answers them.

 

Here's a close up shot of Apung Mamacalulu.  Apu, please answer my prayers too. :)

 

At the side of the church altar, you'll find the tombstones of the founder of Angeles City.

 

Here's the main entrance of the Church.  Check out the solid wooden door - door within a door - a trademark of old Churches.

 

Just across the Holy Rosary Parish Church is the Holy Angel University - the biggest university in Luzon.  What's interesting about this University is it offers Kapampangan studies.  At least, the interest is kept alive and there's an active effort to preserve the Pampanggo dialect and heritage.

 

We visited the Holy Angel University Museum - this museum focuses on the Pampanggo heritage in general versus Museo ning Angeles which focuses on Angeles.  The first thing that you would see is this retablo presenting all the various patron saints of the towns of Pampanga.



I looked for the patroness of my parents' hometown  - St. Rita de Cascia.



And the patron saint of the town where I grew up - San Fernando.  Ok, I've to admit that I couldn't find him at first so I had to check the museum's cheat sheet! Haha... It's been a long while since I had been to the Cathedral.

 

At the base of the retablo was detailed metalcraft called "pukpuk".



See how detailed the designs are. I never knew about this Pampanggo craftmanship until this museum visit!  According to the info I read, a few Pampanga towns still practice pukpuk today like Apalit and Mexico. 



Within the museum, you'll also find death masks by notable death mask artist and National Artist for Sculpture, Napoleon V. Abueva.  The tradition of doing death masks dates back to our ancestors "to preserve the last facial features of the dead as a way of honoring them and perpetuating their memory". 

Abueva has so far done 3 death masks - masks of Ninoy Aquino, Fernando Poe Jr and Cardinal Sin.  The death masks of Ninoy and FPJ (who both have Kapampangan roots) are displayed in the museum.

Here is Ninoy's death mask.



Here is FPJ's death mask. I didn't actually know FPJ had Pampanggo roots. But based on the article, FPJ's grandmother hails from either Candaba or Lubao who married an American World War I Army Corps.

 

Within Holy Angel University, you can also visit its beautiful chapel.


 

Beautiful pukpuk artwork!

There's also this interesting artwork entitled "Kamulatan" in the school grounds.  So many talented Pampanggo artists!



Museo ning Angeles is open daily from 9am to 5pm.  You can also arrange for special Kapampangan lunch, night tour and even a guided tour around the city.  To contact them, please call +63 45 8874703 and +63 926 9876655.  Sorry I don't know the schedule of the Holy Angel University Museum but the people from Museo ning Angeles should be able to help you too.

Where to eat in Angeles City


My friends and I had a food trip in Angeles City last weekend.  We tried 9 restaurants in 2 days!  Sharing with you our food discoveries (in random order):

1.  RUMPA stands for Retired US Military Philippine Association.



RUMPA is an American diner built in 1974 in Angeles City where retired GI Joes used to hang out to reminisce and exchange stories. It was originally owned by a retired military personnel but was sold later on to a local when the American military left Clark.  But until today, there are still some retired military personnel who still visit the place and enjoy the great food.



RUMPA is just a small restaurant with about 10 to 15 tables.  Here's inside the American diner.



 We went there for breakfast and here are the dishes we tried:

Hotcakes
 I don't usually order pancakes in restaurants because most of the time, they are not moist or tasty enough but RUMPA's hotcakes are good.  They remind me of homemade pancakes - moist and with the right amount of sweetness - no need to pour syrup.  Yum.


Ham and Mushroom Omelet
Ham and Mushroom Omelet was their Saturday daily special.  They have a daily omelet special so there are quick pick options for people who can't decide what to get (like us! haha...).  

Egg-N-Stuff
Together with the eggs, you can choose among Ham, Bacon, Sausage and Hamburger Pattie.  This one is with the Sausage. The sausages were good.


Barbecue Spare ribs
It was breakfast but we couldn't help order at least one Rumpa Classic.  The bestsellers according to the waiter were the steak and the spare ribs.  We decided to get the the barbecue spare ribs - super tender and the barbecue sauce was yummy.  The fries were good too.

Brewed Iced Tea
The RUMPA iced tea is brewed iced tea with a hint of calamansi.  Really good.  And what's even great is most meals come with a glass of iced tea.

The best surprise during our visit at RUMPA was when we got the bill. You know how much our total bill was for all the food we ordered?  Php610! Roughly USD15!  Wow.  Great value for money. They are truly delivering what they promise as their tagline says - RUMPA:  Where good food is at its lowest possible price.

RUMPA restaurant is located at 1307 Surla St., Balibago, Angeles City.  Phone nos. +63 45 3314805  and +63 45 8926659.  RUMPA is open from 7am to 930pm daily.

2.  Cely's is a carinderia that has been in Nepo Mart since 1970.  My friend who's from Angeles said that it's a great, affordable place to try Kapampangan food.  She shares that even a popular local chef brings balikbayan guests to this place.  So their food must be really authentic. :)

Cely's Turo Turo
Here's inside Cely's - it's not air-conditioned but the place is well-ventilated. 
Inside Cely's
It's turo-turo style at Cely's. 


For those who don't know what turo-turo means, the way to tell the attendant what food you wish to order is by pointing at the dishes using your finger. Turo literally means "to point".




Cely's has wide variety of local Kapampangan dishes and delicacies. Check these out -


Adobong Kamaru (Crickets)
I used to eat Kamaru when I was a (clueless) kid but stopped as soon as I realized what they were. Haha...


Bulanglang na Bangus
Bulanglang is the Kapampangan's version of sinigang but using guava (instead of sampaloc or kamias).  This is one of my favorite Kapampangan dishes.


Kamansi


I just googled what kamansi is in English and it's Seeded Breadfruit.  Kamansi is easier to remember.  Haha...
Sisig
Lengua
Tidtad
Tidtad is the Kapampangan's version of dinuguan.  Although we normally eat it with rice, not puto.


Cely's also serves all-time favorite Pinoy dishes like -


Lechong Kawali
I also remember seeing freshly fried chicharon! Tempting. Haha...

Anyway, here are the dishes we tried:


Paku Salad (Fern Salad)
Adobong Pusit
Bistig (Kapampangan's version of Beef Steak)
Bulalo
Chopsuey
Ningnang Tilapia (Inihaw or Grilled Tilapia)
Tagilo or Buru (Fermented Rice)
Tagilo or Buru goes best with grilled fish.  Cely's buru though was a bit oily and not too sour.  I prefer the less oily and more sour version. 


Chicken Barbecue
Yummy food!  Our tummies were happy after the meal.  Our pockets were happy too!  You know how much we paid for all the dishes we ordered including 2 servings of drinks for each of us (so total of 8 drinks)?  Only Php818! :)

So the next time you want to binge on Kapampangan food and get value for your money, check out Cely's Carinderia at Nepo Mart in Angeles City.  You can easily ask around where Cely's is once you reach Nepo Mart.  Then after your meal, you may want to have dessert at Susie's Cuisine which is just across Cely's.  Incidentally, Cely's Carinderia has a branch in San Fernando, Pampanga (which I only found out now.).  It's located along Lazatin Road, Villa Victoria, Dolores, San Fernando, Pampanga.

3.  Susie's Cuisine is known for its wide variety of kakanin (local cakes).  Its original branch is in Nepo Mart, Angeles City and my friends who grew up there rave about how they witnessed this small, simple outlet progress through the years.  It has now 12 branches in the region and this is how the main branch in Nepo Mart looks like today.

We decided to sample some of Susie's kakanin. 

You know how much all of these samplers cost? A total of Php82! :) 

Tibok Tibok

This is what we call Tibok-Tibok in Kapampangan. It's our local custard.  I like Tibok-Tibok best when it has a hint of dayap/dalayap (local lemon).  Tibok-tibok is sprinkled with latik (glazed coconut flesh).
Cassava Cake
 

Kalamay Duman





Duman is a type of sticky rice that is endemic to Sta. Rita, Pampanga, which can only be harvested around November when the air is cool.  This isn't exactly pure duman because duman is expensive. It's about Php2,000 to Php2,500 per kilo. Plus, it's only harvested once a year.
Moche Moche
Moche Moche is one of Susie's bestsellers.  Yummy. They are filled with latik inside.

Rice Cake
Kakanin in bilao
If you love any of the kakanins, you may want to take home a bilao.  The price ranges anywhere from Php300 to Php600 per bilao. 
 
Susie's also distributes a whole slew of pasalubong items from butong pakwan, aligue, roasted peanuts, candies, etc.

If you want to buy sweets, you may want to check out Rosing's next door (just adjacent to Susie's).  They sell pastillas and sweets made from carabao's milk.  What's great is they'll let you taste their candies before buying.  Their 2 bestsellers are - 


Caramel squares
Pastillas de leche


Susie's Cuisine and Rosing's are both located in Nepo Mart, Angeles City, Pampanga.
4.  Angeles Fried Chicken, also called AFC, is known for serving the best fried chicken in Angeles City. 
     

My friend said that not much has changed in this restaurant since she was a kid.  She remembers the same tables, chairs, decorations and even the dim lighting.  In fact when the phone rang while we were eating, it was the tone of a landline from way back in the 80s. And when we looked at the phone, it was indeed a vintage!  And this is probably the restaurant's charm to its loyal customers.



We ordered AFC's classic fried chicken.




AFC's classic fried chicken reminds me of KFC's original recipe including the taste of its gravy. Yum. But what I liked better was -



AFC's Japanese Fried Chicken. Garlicky.  Yum-yum! 

We also ordered camaron and fried mushrooms.  They were yummy too. Hay, so many delicious dishes to try!   Haha... 

5.   Kabigting's halo-halo originated from Arayat, Pampanga. Its branch at Marquee Mall is near Italianni's but they also have a branch in Robinson's StarMills in San Fernando, Pampanga. 



What makes Kabigting's Halo Halo special is it has chunks of pastillas (made from carabao's milk) and yummy glazed beans.  How can you resist that? 



6.  Island Grill (IG) in Fontana Clarkfield, Pampanga was included in our list because I love puga.  Puga (fish eggs) are considered a delicacy in Pampanga.  Some local restaurants serve it grilled, some sizzling and others, fried.  


Deep fried Puga.  Super yummy!  


And Pritson! Sinful but it's really good.  It's the best pritson for me.  Very fine, crispy flakes. 

7.  Mr. Park's Bread and Cake along Friendship Highway (but I checked its FB page and apparently its main branch is in BF Homes, Paranaque).


My friend said they have the best cream puffs.



I'm not a big fan of cream puffs but I love these.  Unlike regular cream puffs which are usually crispy or hard on the outside, Mr Park's are made from soft bread and the cream isn't that sweet.   And because they are not too sweet, you feel guiltless and end up eating a lot. Haha...


8.   Camalig Restaurant is also known as the Home of Armando's Pizza which is dubbed as the Pambansang Pizza.   Pambansang Pizza (National Pizza) because on its menu, you'll find pizza variants with longganiza, salted duck egg, tuyo, tinapa, kesong puti and chicken adobo.  But Camalig does have regular pepperoni and salami pizza too.  It has a total of 15 pizza flavors to choose from and also offers pasta dishes, Filipino, American and Mexican dishes.

Here's the entrance going to Camalig.


Camalig is considered historical because the structure dates back to 1840.  



Camalig, during the Spanish era, is what you call a grain depot.  If you've ever been to an old Spanish ancestral mansion, usually the "camalig" is a detached structure a few meters away from the main house.  It is where sacks of rice and grains are stored.  The restaurant is called Camalig because it was a real camalig in the 19th century. :) 

Here's inside the Camalig Restaurant.



Inside the restaurant, you'll also find a collection of old photos and antique items like these vintage bottles.





Even antique household appliances like this electric fan.


We only had a light dinner at Camalig's because we had a couple of other restaurants to visit after. Haha... 

We ordered buffalo wings.  Yum!

Deep-fried Chicken Wings, Php330
We also ordered Doy's Kapampangan Pizza sprinkled with longganiza and ebun buru (salted duck egg).  Camalig's pizza crust is crispy.  Yum-yum.

Doy's Kapampangan Pizza (Large size), Php397
They have 3 sizes of pizza - small, medium, large. Large is 13".  So no worries whether you're a small or big group.

When we were paying our bill, we noticed these papier mache heads at the counter.  We could recognize John Lennon (second from the right) and Gandhi (rightmost) but couldn't identify the rest.  We asked the waiters who the rest were.  They said the second from the left is Mother Teresa (though she doesn't look like Mother Teresa to us! haha...) and the middle is Jesus (pwede...).  They don't know who the leftmost is but our guess is Martin Luther King Jr.  But we're just guessing. :)


Camalig's Restaurant is located at 292 Sto. Rosario Street, Angeles City.  


9.  RFW - my friends who grew up in Angeles City say it serves the city's best halo-halo and palabo - a perfect place to have merienda.  


Here's the bestseller RFW Pansit Palabok.  A platter costs only Php40!


And here's the RFW Halo-Halo - considered Angeles' City's best halo halo. A big bowl costs Php60.  The shaved ice is not as smooth as Razon's but I love it!  Its main ingredients are home-made macapuno and corn.  After tasting it, I couldn't decide which one I like better - Razon's or RFW's or Kabigting's. Haha...



RFW is located along Sto. Rosario St., Sto Domingo, Angeles City, Pampanga.  If you wish to contact RFW, their phone numbers are +63 927 2809996 and +63 946 2472160.  The Carmelite Monastery and RFW are just across each other so you may want to visit the monastery as well.

Here's the Carmelite Monastery. The weather was a bit gloomy when we dropped by there.


Here's inside the church.  Very solemn.



 Peaceful place.   



You may want to light candles for your petitions and loved ones you wish to pray for while you're there. You can buy the candles at the store near the side entrance of the church. 


9 eateries in 2 days.  Wow, that's some record.  Haha...  :)